Using washes on models

[Stark]

So I have some unpainted plastic models I want to wash, but I've never done it before on not-miniatures so I was wondering if anyone had any advice. Since the models are largely flat with small details, I want the ink/paint to go into those details and not stick around on 99% of the piece, unlike a miniature where it's all about contrast. I don't need to worry about solvent types etc cause no paint, but I'm still very curious to know the best way to avoid messyness, especially since my plan is just flat topcoat over the top and be finished.

[sgt67]

Well, the first thing about washes is they will apply a lot more easily over a gloss coat, but I don't know if you want to do that step since the idea is to leave them unpainted. I assume you won't. All you really need to do is apply the paint to the panel lines with a thin brush, wait for it to set and then carefully go in and remove the excess. A q-tip would be a good tool. Are you going for a stark anime line art,look or more naturalistic washing? They also sell dry pigments like MIG for a real weathered look.

[Stark]

Oh, so you can brush wash over son details, give it a moment and then manually remove the excess to stop it leaving a thin paint layer? Maybe I sacrifice Yukikaze to test.

I really just want to avoid going over the whole model with a 002 pen lol.

Actually, how does gloss/Matt work with layered finishes? For instance I have a model painted gloss metallic and I'd like to topcoat it to get a flat surface for decals. If I used a flat top oat would that make it look flat or would the gloss be visible through it? And if I used a gloss coat to make washing easier would a flat topcoat make it look flat again?

[sgt67]

Exactly. Whether it's an enamel or acrylic wash the principle is the same, and cleanup will be very easy with no paint to worry about. Just don't use say an enamel clear coat and then enamel washes because obviously the paint thinner will remove both layers. On a painted subject like the one you mentioned, gloss/flat won't radically alter a metallic sheen, at least not in my experience. Always use gloss before decals though, it makes the surface smoother so the decals set better. Flat will make anything flat, regardless of what's underneath.

[Stark]

Yeah I realized I used flat in two ways up there and it wasn't clear. It's the gloss I want on my painted guy because some parts of the paint are uneven and I'm terrible with water slides.

When doing miniatures I usually diluted with water, but when looking at model washes everyone seems to recommend thinner. Is this because of how it's used in these cases?

[Lord Relvenous]

Yeah I realized I used flat in two ways up there and it wasn't clear. It's the gloss I want on my painted guy because some parts of the paint are uneven and I'm terrible with water slides.

When doing miniatures I usually diluted with water, but when looking at model washes everyone seems to recommend thinner. Is this because of how it's used in these cases?

Thinner tends to lend itself to a better wash, as water has high surface tension that can cause it to remain on areas that are raised. An easy way to use water and have the benefits of thinner is to mix in a miniscule amount of dish soap in with your wash (and I mean very little). It will break up the surface tension of the wash without having to dump money on thinner.

[Stark]

I couldn't find my thinners, so I tried water - I guess I'm not using enough soap, though, because the surface tension is still high and bringing anything near the washed area just sucks it off the surface again. I added the detergent through the scientific method of stubbing the end of my brush in some and then stirring it in to the wash... so maybe that's not a good way to do it. :V

[sgt67]

Yeah if you have an eye dropper try adding a couple of drops that way. Spirits really will help though, you can get them very cheaply from any hardware store.