StarDestroyer.Net BBS

Ladies, gents and germs,

Seeing as how this is AMAP and I'm looking for something that pertains to artwork, I hope this is the appropriate venue for this:

I have a TIE Fighter model, 1/72 scale, from the great folk at Fine Molds. Unfortunately, my cockpit's canopy piece was ruined by unforeseen difficulties (read: my Siamese likes to chew pieces of plastic).

The piece is damaged beyond any hope of repair, which puts me in a bind: a local friend has expressed her love of said model kit, and my hope was to surprise her with a completed TIE in time for her birthday -- two weeks from now

If I had a fresh canopy piece within the next week, I'd have no trouble making that deadline. If anyone can help, please contact me immediately. As many of my friends can attest, I'm abysmally slow at responding to PMs, but I generally receive them the day they're sent.

Thanks much,
-Sean

If all else fails, it might be worth asking about a replacement part at the store where you bought the model. I can't say for sure whether you'd get a replacement in time, considering that Fine Molds is an overseas company and all, but I have heard that model companies are generally quite reasonable about replacing damaged parts.

Though you won't get it in the time you need, HLJ oftentimes allows you to purchase specific sprues from model kits.

Why don't you make it look like the TIE was damaged in combat?

If kitty left enough the part undamaged to where you can pick up dimensions and details to extrapolate, scratchbuild, Sean, scratchbuild!

Gentlemen,

Yeah, it's too bad I don't have quite enough time to wait on HobbyLink Japan for replacement parts; I, too, have heard they're great about providing replacements.

Fortunately, I've secured another source for Fine Molds parts *whew*. So no scratchbuilding necessary, Frank No battle-damage required, Wayne-O!

I tell ya, though, I am thinking about building a TIE Mauler/Crawler based on the 1/48 TIE. If I build it as depicted in Empire at War, I could even work some of the "solar panels" into the design.

Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. One of these days I'll have to post some in-progress shots of all the Wars stuff on my bench!

Frank Hipper wrote:If kitty left enough the part undamaged to where you can pick up dimensions and details to extrapolate, scratchbuild, Sean, scratchbuild!

Though the problem is now solved, the TIE front transparency should be relatively easy to scratch-build, as it is almost entirely made of flat panels. The framework between the transparent sections could be rebuilt with strip styrene and detailed with a knife or panel scriber, if I recall the part rightly (my TIE kits are at the bottom of a too-large stack).

An X-Wing canopy should be even easier to rebuild, if necessary.

FSTargetDrone wrote:

Frank Hipper wrote:If kitty left enough the part undamaged to where you can pick up dimensions and details to extrapolate, scratchbuild, Sean, scratchbuild!

Though the problem is now solved, the TIE front transparency should be relatively easy to scratch-build, as it is almost entirely made of flat panels. The framework between the transparent sections could be rebuilt with strip styrene and detailed with a knife or panel scriber, if I recall the part rightly (my TIE kits are at the bottom of a too-large stack).

An X-Wing canopy should be even easier to rebuild, if necessary.

I think I could do an X-Wing canopy -- maybe At 1/48 scale or larger, I'm sure I could.

But these Fine Molds TIE canopies ... whew. They're just too small for me to scratchbuild. It's a moot point now, of course, and my TIE's progressing swimmingly; but if scratching were my only recourse, I'd be screwed, blued and tatooed.

(Whatever that means. All I know is it's basically "good and fucked.")

I wish Fine Molds had made the canopy's clear plastic and the dark gray framework separate parts, but I guess at the scale given they simply couldn't manage. Here's hoping some of their future, larger-scale offerings will be that much easier to build into masterpieces *crosses fingers*

seanrobertson wrote:I think I could do an X-Wing canopy -- maybe At 1/48 scale or larger, I'm sure I could.

But these Fine Molds TIE canopies ... whew. They're just too small for me to scratchbuild. It's a moot point now, of course, and my TIE's progressing swimmingly; but if scratching were my only recourse, I'd be screwed, blued and tatooed.

(Whatever that means. All I know is it's basically "good and fucked.")

Hehe. Be sure to post some pics here if you are so inclined!

I wish Fine Molds had made the canopy's clear plastic and the dark gray framework separate parts, but I guess at the scale given they simply couldn't manage. Here's hoping some of their future, larger-scale offerings will be that much easier to build into masterpieces *crosses fingers*

Yeah, that might be tricky. At least they did provide the painting masks, which is a lot better than fiddling with X-Actos and hoping you don't slip while trimming some tape, only to gouge the part that's supposed to be clear!

You know, Fine Molds has recently released a Y-Wing too. And if I had the money I'd grab up one of the Millennium Falcon kits!

seanrobertson wrote:

FSTargetDrone wrote:

Frank Hipper wrote:If kitty left enough the part undamaged to where you can pick up dimensions and details to extrapolate, scratchbuild, Sean, scratchbuild!

Though the problem is now solved, the TIE front transparency should be relatively easy to scratch-build, as it is almost entirely made of flat panels. The framework between the transparent sections could be rebuilt with strip styrene and detailed with a knife or panel scriber, if I recall the part rightly (my TIE kits are at the bottom of a too-large stack).

An X-Wing canopy should be even easier to rebuild, if necessary.

I think I could do an X-Wing canopy -- maybe At 1/48 scale or larger, I'm sure I could.

But these Fine Molds TIE canopies ... whew. They're just too small for me to scratchbuild. It's a moot point now, of course, and my TIE's progressing swimmingly; but if scratching were my only recourse, I'd be screwed, blued and tatooed.

(Whatever that means. All I know is it's basically "good and fucked.")

I wish Fine Molds had made the canopy's clear plastic and the dark gray framework separate parts, but I guess at the scale given they simply couldn't manage. Here's hoping some of their future, larger-scale offerings will be that much easier to build into masterpieces *crosses fingers*

You must have some great coordination if you're actually wishing for glass parts like that. Most of my experiences trying to get flat clear pieces into small frames have ended with the piece falling out from a lack of glue sticking or fingerprints on what's supposed to be see through.

Thag, Future brand (marketed as "Klear" in Europe, IIRC) acrylic floor polish is wonderful for those tricky clear parts; dip the part in Future to where the stuff thickly coats it, stick in place, and let it sit and dry for at least 12 hours.

Elmer's glue (plain old-fashioned white glue) is another solution, too.

Interesting. I use future for decal prep and gloss coating. I didn't know it was good for adhesive purposes as well. I usually try to avoid mass application of glue while building.

Thag wrote:Interesting. I use future for decal prep and gloss coating. I didn't know it was good for adhesive purposes as well. I usually try to avoid mass application of glue while building.

Not only is it useful for attaching clear parts, modelers also use it to fix scratches on clear plastic parts:

1. Get a small dish of Future/Kleer. Take your scratched clear part, clean it off thoroughly and dip it into the Future with some tweezers (try to grab a corner of the part). Take the part out of the Future bath and, using a paper tower, wick off the excess Future by holding an edge of the part against the towel. Capillary action should draw off the excess Future.

2. Take your clear part and put it inside a clean (dust-free!) plastic container with another piece of paper towel on the bottom of the container. Let the Future harden for a day or so. Don't touch the part until it is fully dried. Make sure the part is only resting on its edges, on top of the paper.

3. After the Future is cured, mask and paint the clear part or canopy as normal, if need be.

You won't believe how clear the part is when you are done. This is especially useful for model car windshields or curved aircraft canopies that have a mold seam line down the center. Sand and buff out the seam line and dip the part into Future. It will make all the scratches disappear!

If you accidentally mess up the Future-dipping or you see dust embedded in it (even after it dries), just dip the Future-coated part into some Windex window cleaner. It will safely strip off the Future and you can start over.