StarDestroyer.Net BBS

Answer me! Either PM or here...

And here's a preemptive stay out of here, Phant.

That's a joke, btw

The most I know about repairing guitars is how to change the strings on my own.

General Zod wrote:The most I know about repairing guitars is how to change the strings on my own.

I'm still in the novice range when it comes to the tech work, but I'm learning. I've been improving a junker Fender Squier, and so far, it's going pretty well. I wont be hammering on my Grestch any time soon though...

What size strings do you normally use?

I can build you a guitar amp and that's about where my knowledge ends.

aerius wrote:I can build you a guitar amp and that's about where my knowledge ends.

So that are you waiting for?

Superman wrote:So that are you waiting for?

A certified check, money order, or payment into my paypal account so I can buy the parts needed to build it?

Superman wrote:

General Zod wrote:The most I know about repairing guitars is how to change the strings on my own.

I'm still in the novice range when it comes to the tech work, but I'm learning. I've been improving a junker Fender Squier, and so far, it's going pretty well. I wont be hammering on my Grestch any time soon though...

What size strings do you normally use?

String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.

General Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.

Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string length

Cool guitar. How much did you pay for it?

Superman wrote:

General Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.

Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string length

Oh, well. I don't really have a preference as long as it sounds metal. I've only had to change the strings once when I made the noob mistake of trying to tune it by ear and accidentally snapped the E string.

General Zod wrote:Oh, well. I don't really have a preference as long as it sounds metal. I've only had to change the strings once when I made the noob mistake of trying to tune it by ear and accidentally snapped the E string.

If that happened recently, you might want to have a tech check the guitar's neck relief (tension between bridge and nut). It might do a whole lot better with an adjustment. Of course, anyone's string would snap if they put it on and start winding like a madman...

What specifically are you looking to do? I'm just starting to mess around with the electronics in one of my guitars and haven't done much bodywork yet, but I could probably offer some advice.

YT300000 wrote:What specifically are you looking to do? I'm just starting to mess around with the electronics in one of my guitars and haven't done much bodywork yet, but I could probably offer some advice.

Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.

Superman wrote:

General Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.

Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string length

Cool guitar. How much did you pay for it?

Also, because I missed this last bit: I wound up shelling out about $200 for the guitar itself and another $80 for a cheap Marshall amp. I had planned on getting a BC Rich Warbeast but it was about $100 more than I wanted to spend at the time.

Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.

As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?

Superman wrote:

YT300000 wrote:What specifically are you looking to do? I'm just starting to mess around with the electronics in one of my guitars and haven't done much bodywork yet, but I could probably offer some advice.

Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.

Oh, that sort of thing, I can definitely help you with that, I thought you meant something more advanced. Judging by the earlier reference to a Squier, I'm guessing you've got a 6-screw Fender Synchronized Trem on there, which would also explain why it's not in tune.

Is your problem mainly the strings going sharp after you come out of a whammy dive, or something more complex?

tim31 wrote:

Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.

As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?

It's not really that hard, you just need a bit of patience and 3 or 4 sizes of screwdrivers.

This is coming from a guy who utterly abhors locking nuts (you lose too much tone, even on the Fender swivel variety of the 80's), and is to too cheap to buy locking tuners: with proper balancing, you can dive bomb on any well-made floating bridge all day and come back perfectly in tune every time.

YT300000 wrote:Oh, that sort of thing, I can definitely help you with that, I thought you meant something more advanced. Judging by the earlier reference to a Squier, I'm guessing you've got a 6-screw Fender Synchronized Trem on there, which would also explain why it's not in tune.

It's not a problem with staying in tune, at least not yet... I haven't effed with it enough yet. But really, even with crappy Squiers (as much as I hate to make a positive comment about any type of Strat), it's generally not that difficult to get a good alignment and keep it there. I think I once dropped the Squier I had before this one onto the kitchen floor and it somehow managed to stay in tune. They're simplistic shit, but in my experience they generally hold up... at least they do after a decent set up.

The one I'm wondering about is a Chinese made Affinity. It's the same crappy vintage style that you see on almost all Squiers. I'm about to give it a hard tail, and after I block the trem string block with a piece of wood, is there any reason at that point at all for keeping the springs in the cavity? Anyone ever take all of them out?

Superman wrote:*snip*is there any reason at that point at all for keeping the springs in the cavity? Anyone ever take all of them out?

Only if you don't properly secure the bridge. Otherwise, the tension from the strings will pull the bridge upwards thereby detuning your guitar in unpredicatable ways.

The Spartan wrote:

Superman wrote:*snip*is there any reason at that point at all for keeping the springs in the cavity? Anyone ever take all of them out?

Only if you don't properly secure the bridge. Otherwise, the tension from the strings will pull the bridge upwards thereby detuning your guitar in unpredicatable ways.

Yeah, got that. So let's assume that everything is good. No more float. Could taking the springs out affect the tone in any way?

Superman wrote:Yeah, got that. So let's assume that everything is good. No more float. Could taking the springs out affect the tone in any way?

Everything you do to your guitar will affect tone. Some noticeably, some not so much.

When you remove springs, you remove mass. That affects tone. That's why a fuller bodied guitar typically sounds thicker than a lighter bodied guitar (there's more mass vibrating), but the light bodied guitar might have more sustain (there's less of a dampening effect due to the mass). I'm speaking very generally here, of course.

(Really, you might be better off asking a mod to move this to AMP. And PMing Tith or Rye to come and join in on the thread.)

As for strings, I prefer 10's myself. I think they have a thicker sound than 9's but are still easier to manipulate than 11's or 12's. On that note, Stevie Ray Vaughan played using 12's as I recall. In fact, much his tone on his first album was his guitar, his amp and those bridge cable strings he played. No effects. No manipulation through electronic widgets. Not even distortion.

YT300000 wrote:
It's not really that hard, you just need a bit of patience and 3 or 4 sizes of screwdrivers.

This is coming from a guy who utterly abhors locking nuts (you lose too much tone, even on the Fender swivel variety of the 80's), and is to too cheap to buy locking tuners: with proper balancing, you can dive bomb on any well-made floating bridge all day and come back perfectly in tune every time.

Please impart this forbidden knowledge!

At one point, I wanted to grab a Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier (or, as TithonusSyndrome would call them, Rectum Fryers!) and then wire two extra 12AX7 tubes into the preamp signal path, then put it to a switch to allow me to either bypass them or direct the signal through the last two, so when my guitar went into overdrive, I could turn on the last two 12AX7s and get even more gain. Of course, I would probably need to replace the transformer to do that as well and rewire most of the preamp section to accomodate the extra tubes, and that's running into a whole wall made of stinking, steaming, solid shitbricks. The thing about Mesa is that they wire point to point, they don't use circuit boards, so that makes it easier.

Of course, this project was destined to fail, because I don't have $5000 to throw away, and as awesome as a big amplifier is, I really have no need for it.

The Spartan wrote:snip

Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I've been doing some Googling and found some interesting info on this very subject (thanks to some of your information). It's from "Hard Tail Options" chapter of "The Fender Stratocaster Handbook."

At least one of the trem springs should be left in place, as this provides the earth or ground continuity via the wiring to the spring 'claw.' As they contribute to the sound, they are best left in place.

Well, shit. Had no idea about that either.

tim31 wrote:

Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.

As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?

Actually, I think they're more hassle than worth and turn into a crutch for hacky soloists all too often. Sorry to disappoint.

TithonusSyndrome wrote:Sorry to disappoint.

Not only am I disappointed with your revelation, sir, but you have shattered all of my hopes and dreams as well. Now that I know you don't like using a whammy bar, I'm not sure that I can on. I now bid you good day!

It's true that hacky soloists all too often use whammy bars... Just look at this guy.



But I will say that if they had any sense at all, they'd man up and use a Bigsby on a proper guitar.

In all seriousness, it's all about personal preference, tit. Plenty of kick ass soloists use whammy bars... you big bully, you.