Model kits question

[Uraniun235]

I've got a kit of the Enterprise-E and I happened to run into a website which shows the exact colors used on the studio model, as reported by Rick Sternbach. I figure it'd be neat to be accurate, but I have no idea how those Pantone codes translate into acrylic model paint codes. Does anyone have any insight/suggestions?

[Kyler]

http://www.pantone.com/pages/paint/paintselector.aspx

Here is a link to their paint database on their website, I hope it helps in finding the right colors to use

[Bob the Gunslinger]

Don't forget that a lot of these colors are distorted by the studio lights until they look completely different. For example, I understand that the 1701 D had a lot of greens on it, but the studio lights made the green look metallic on screen.

[tim31]

That's why I usually go on screencaps. May not be perfect, but it's more likely to look like my perception of the piece as seen on screen. Used to have an K'tinga-class that just didn't look right the first time around, so I did it again using photos. Wish I still had it.

[Uraniun235]

Don't forget that a lot of these colors are distorted by the studio lights until they look completely different. For example, I understand that the 1701 D had a lot of greens on it, but the studio lights made the green look metallic on screen.

Actually, when I eventually get around to doing the D, I'm thinking of doing the colors as originally specified.


Although for the -E I think I'll go with as seen on screen.

[Bob the Gunslinger]

It's funny that he says he chose blue to provide some continuity to Kirk's "blue/green" Enterprise from the films when the 1701 refit has always appeared to be an unpainted steel hull on screen. At least, that's how it looks to me and to whoever wrote Scotty's Guide to the Enterprise.

[seanrobertson]

I've got a kit of the Enterprise-E and I happened to run into a website which shows the exact colors used on the studio model, as reported by Rick Sternbach. I figure it'd be neat to be accurate, but I have no idea how those Pantone codes translate into acrylic model paint codes. Does anyone have any insight/suggestions?

Uraniun,

It's tangential, but I'm not too crazy about most acrylic model paints. Stinky, slow-curing enamels certainly have their drawbacks, but there's something to say for those in terms of a quality finish.

I say that partly as a result of my own bias; i.e., I've had rather poor results with acrylics overall. For example, Model Master Acryl don't adhere well and tend to be too much like lumpy liquid latex IMO. Tamiya's line is highly touted but hand-painting those things without a retardant is the very definition of spinning your wheels. Even then, in spite of practicing with them on and off since '98ish, I can't airbrush Tamiya to save my life. Some acrylics, like the Citadel line and, to a lesser extent, the Vallejos, are OK for hand-brushing work -- provided you know what you're doing (few do). About the only acrylic-based handpainting I do are inks or watercolors mixed with a product called Future Floor Wax. Future is self-leveling, so it's hard to get a bad finish with the stuff, especially if you thin it slightly with 91% isopropyl alcohol. (The trick is finding that shit. I think it goes by Pledge with Future Shine or somesuch now. Some supermarkets in the U.S. carry it. Many don't. Outside of the U.S. ... *shrugs*)

But that doesn't even begin to answer your question

My best suggestion is to compare the Pantone colors to what you see in this chart.

For example, Pantone Cool Gray 1 CVU seems to correspond to FS16473, Model Master's Aircraft Gray.

Even that comes down to a matter of resolution. For example, I tried to pick out the second and third shades of gray for you, but my Pantone chart simply isn't up to the task. Not with this half-assed little monitor.

If you're really serious abut this -- and you haven't already joined Starshipmodeler -- I recommend you do so and seek out a member there named Tracy Mann. He specializes in TNG-plus designs, and his paintjobs on his 1/1400 scale Akiras, Steamrunners et al. are always stunning and picture-perfect accurate. He's the sort that doesn't post often but, when he does, everybody there takes note.

Further, modeling has come a long way since I started, especially in relation to decaling. Depending on the scale you're working with (1/1400? 1/2500?), there are undoubtedly decals available that cover most of your model's detail colors, including the complex aztec stuff. You might have to hunt around Federationmodels.com, Starfleetmodels.com and the Starshipmodeler Store to find exactly what you need, but I know it's out there.

Good luck. Don't hesitate to PM me with questions if you have them.