StarDestroyer.Net BBS

I used to assemble model aircraft and ships when I was young but I wasn't that good at detailing and eventually stopped because of that.

But. I want to get back into it and I wanted to do somethings to help improve my painting. Specifically, the lines. I thought about using blue painters tape, like what they use to protect paint jobs on drywall but I wasn't sure what that would do to the paintjob on a model. I'm almost certain that it wouldn't harm dry paint but I figured I'd ask anyways.

Also, what paints do you prefer for plastic models? When I was a kid I used Testors Acrylics, IIRC and I always got horrible brush strokes. I've been recommended Delta Ceramcoat for my metal miniatures(another reason I'm getting back into this) by someone who paints them professionally and on a couple of test paints they turned out really well. So, will these also work on plastic models? If not, what would you recommend?

I would strongly suggest that you not use metal paints on plastic models without testing first, probably on the sprue; some of them have rather wicked ingredients that'll do a number on the plastic.

I've had good experiences with Testor's oil paints, but those are a bit of a pain to clean up afterwards; the little jars of thinner I had were highly unsatisfying as they ran out after awhile, and eventually I just got a big jar of mineral spirits and used those. So I would go with the acrylics for most of the work, oils for the details as they tend to have a better gloss in my experience.

As for the lines-- you use tape? Wuss
Kidding... tape's a good idea, actually. There's specialist modeler's masking tape available that you can actually curve on the surface of the model; should be able to find it at hobby stores, or if not, look in auto supply stores that have a good stock of car painting supplies-- they use more or less the same thing. It'll be thicker, but just cut it in half after you tear a bunch off.

The blue painter's tape is about the safest bet you can have for masking. Every once in a while I've had it strip sections off of my kits during painting, but it's usually more due to something on the part (oil, mold release, etc) than the pain content. If you want to get the real specialized stuff and you can't find it locally, I recommend these guys:

www.micromark.com

As for paint brands, I try to stick with Testor Model Master enamels. I've tried their acrylic series and Poly Scale's acrylics and found them to be extremely thin and difficult to work with over large surface areas. If you want to stay with acrylics, I would recommend looking into Tamiya's paints, as I've had the least amount of trouble with them.

One more thing, how far back into modeling do you want to get, and what are you planning on building? If you plan on keeping it up, I would seriously recommend investing in an airbrush. Even the little cheap ones can put a decent finish on a model.

Elheru Aran wrote:There's specialist modeler's masking tape available that you can actually curve on the surface of the model

Would that be more expensive that the blue painters masking tape that I can pick up at Home Depot? If it's not that much more I may do that instead if the extra quality or usage is there but if the cheap stuff works I say go with the cheap stuff.

Elheru Aran wrote:I would strongly suggest that you not use metal paints on plastic models without testing first, probably on the sprue; some of them have rather wicked ingredients that'll do a number on the plastic.

Ceramcoat is not specifically a metal paint. In fact, they don't even mention metal on the bottle: "For painting on wood, plaster, leather, bisque, paper mache and other craft surfaces." Ceramcoat
I wasn't so much concerned about the plastic disolving as I was just having a nice paint job that had good coverage and hide without having the horrible brush strokes that are still on my earlier attempts from years ago.

Thag wrote:One more thing, how far back into modeling do you want to get, and what are you planning on building? If you plan on keeping it up, I would seriously recommend investing in an airbrush. Even the little cheap ones can put a decent finish on a model.

Just going to experiment at first. But if I can get going again I'll be painting the metal miniatures I mentioned and probably plastic model ships and aircraft, Revell's WWII line for example and possibly spacecraft like the Shuttle or Saturn Rockets. But I'll look at the airbrushes when I go to the store today. I have some errands to run and I was planning on stopping at one of the modeling or arts/crafts stores around here.

More With Regards to Paints wrote:As for paint brands, I try to stick with Testor Model Master enamels. I've tried their acrylic series and Poly Scale's acrylics and found them to be extremely thin and difficult to work with over large surface areas. If you want to stay with acrylics, I would recommend looking into Tamiya's paints, as I've had the least amount of trouble with them.
-------
I've had good experiences with Testor's oil paints

I'll look at what they have with paints as well. I think I would be more inclined to go with the enamels if I don't stick with the Ceramcoat(which is a very thick acrylic).

Not sure if I want to get into oil based paints though, they are a pain to clean up as you say.

We use Testors enamals and Tamiya acrylics.

Stupid question: I know it has something to do with the additives in them but what is the difference between acrylics and enamels? Particularly the finished product?

Detailing question: How would I simulate a thin patina of rust? Suppose I wanted to paint a miniature plain, metallic grey and then go back and make it look "weathered" or like the owner hadn't been able to keep up with all of his maintenance? Dry brush some reddish brown onto it?

Acrylics are water-based, enamels are turpentine (or something similar-the exact thing escapes me at the moment).

Rust, there are a couple of methods. Drybrushing is definitely one method you could use. There are two other methods I've used as well: washing or chalking. For washing, take some rust colored paint and thin it down to the consistency of water, and just paint it over the area you want rusted. The only thing is, it will mainly collect in recessed areas, and it can dry looking like water stains on large areas. For chalking, take some brown chalk and grind it into powder. Then take a short, stiff brush, cover it with the powder, and basically scrub it onto the model. It's a great way to simulate rust or dirt, but you need to seal it with some kind of clear coat afterwards to keep it from rubbing off.

Thag wrote:...but you need to seal it with some kind of clear coat afterwards to keep it from rubbing off.

Like Testors Dull Cote? That's what I have. It was recommended by the same guy that recommended the Ceramcoat.

(BTW, the person I've been refering to is the founder of Archer's Miniatures. I had a brief correspondance with him back right when his company was starting out and I had started collecting miniatures, though I never really started painting and now I'm trying to rectify that.)

I went to the store today and I realized I need to offer a clarification. When I was refering to blue painters tape I meant the stuff that wall painters use to protect walls when they're trying to paint one part but not the other. It's basically regular old masking tape, but blue and not quite as sticky.

Then I realized that the plastic masking tape used by modelers is also blue. I also realized that this would be better for painting models and minis as it's plastic and not paper backed.

I also looked for a couple of cheap plastic models to experiment with as well as airbrushes but nothing really caught my eye yet. But I'm only checking things out at the moment. I'll probably end up buying a B17 or a P38 to do when I finally get around to it, they were always my favorites.

for the decals an odourless hairspray works rather well for that

The Spartan wrote:

Thag wrote:...but you need to seal it with some kind of clear coat afterwards to keep it from rubbing off.

Like Testors Dull Cote? That's what I have. It was recommended by the same guy that recommended the Ceramcoat.

(BTW, the person I've been refering to is the founder of Archer's Miniatures. I had a brief correspondance with him back right when his company was starting out and I had started collecting miniatures, though I never really started painting and now I'm trying to rectify that.)

Dull Cote works pretty well. If you do chalk the model though, you need to gradually mist it on. Otherwise, if you apply it like standard spray paint, it'll wash the chalk away.