So I recently got a Panasonic Travel Zoom 1, and I really like the 10X zoom and the image stabilization. But, there's always the problem of blurry pictures even with image stabilization on, especially at 10x. I know, to get good pictures I should use a tripod, etc, etc, but sometimes those things just aren't feasible.
So does anyone here have any tips for shooting good pictures at long ranges? And not losing too much image detail?
Long Zoom Photography tips?
Moderator: Beowulf
Try different ways of holding the camera. For example, if you hold it at arm's length with one hand it's going to shake all over the place, holding it using both hands with your elbows and upper arms braced against your body will give a much more stable platform. Also, work on a smooth shutter release motion, if you punch down on the button the camera will shake all over the place, you want to squeeze the button down gently & smoothly to avoid jerking the camera around. Also, look for objects you can use to brace your hands, walls, telephone poles, chairs, cars, stair rails and any other relatively big stable object can be used to help steady your hands.
Your camera should also have an ISO adjustment somewhere, but with point & shoot cameras I'd be hesitant to set it above 200 to 400. A higher ISO will give greater light sensitivity and a faster shutter speed which helps to reduce shake. Problem is with point & shoots it also leads to more noise, grain, and poorer image quality, so you need to find a trade-off between blurring from the camera shaking and the above issues.
Your camera should also have an ISO adjustment somewhere, but with point & shoot cameras I'd be hesitant to set it above 200 to 400. A higher ISO will give greater light sensitivity and a faster shutter speed which helps to reduce shake. Problem is with point & shoots it also leads to more noise, grain, and poorer image quality, so you need to find a trade-off between blurring from the camera shaking and the above issues.
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Darth Wong
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Use a tripod. Failing that, hold a long zoom lens near the end, if this is practical. Also, crank up your ISO speed as Aerius suggested.
Another tip is to use multi-shot mode (assuming your camera has it). The camera tends to shake when you press the button to take a picture, but if you can hold the button down to take several shots in a row, take three or four. The second one will often be better.
Cranking up the ISO speed is a really bad idea if the lighting is not too good. In that case, here's a tip that requires a computer: stabilize the camera on a solid object or tripod and then take a whole bunch of rapid-fire shots, like four or five. Then, load all those pictures into a computer and use digital image averaging to add them together into a single picture (you might want to skip the first one if you have a tendency to jostle the camera when you hit the button). That will eliminate most of the grain.
Another tip is to use multi-shot mode (assuming your camera has it). The camera tends to shake when you press the button to take a picture, but if you can hold the button down to take several shots in a row, take three or four. The second one will often be better.
Cranking up the ISO speed is a really bad idea if the lighting is not too good. In that case, here's a tip that requires a computer: stabilize the camera on a solid object or tripod and then take a whole bunch of rapid-fire shots, like four or five. Then, load all those pictures into a computer and use digital image averaging to add them together into a single picture (you might want to skip the first one if you have a tendency to jostle the camera when you hit the button). That will eliminate most of the grain.
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The Grim Squeaker
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This is especially true with this model, Image noise is a BITCH at higher ISO levels. (I have this exact model).aerius wrote: Your camera should also have an ISO adjustment somewhere, but with point & shoot cameras I'd be hesitant to set it above 200 to 400. A higher ISO will give greater light sensitivity and a faster shutter speed which helps to reduce shake. Problem is with point & shoots it also leads to more noise, grain, and poorer image quality, so you need to find a trade-off between blurring from the camera shaking and the above issues.
The lens is a "short" one, so stabilizing it with both hands is a bit tricky, still I've found that setting it on the Second image stabilization mode helps, as does holding your breath for a few seconds (Though usually I only bother doing this with a DSLR, but the principle is sound).
In addition, avoid positions that stress you physically (Leaning backwards, leaning on one hand and aiming with the other), and if you do have to contort yourself for a decent shot then for heaven's gate lean forward and stabilize on your knees (And try the Sports mode, its better than the "Indoor objects" mode for quick shooting as a "2 second click" option).
Photography
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Genius is always allowed some leeway, once the hammer has been pried from its hands and the blood has been cleaned up.
To improve is to change; to be perfect is to change often.
They're pretty good for smaller cameras as long as you can have something to put them on.Hawkwings wrote:Thanks for the tips guys.
Anyone ever try one of those mini-tripods that can bend around things like railings and poles to stabilize the camera? How effective are they?
If you don't want to lug around a full tripod, you might consider something like a monopod - the Bogen/Manfrotto 680B is a nice small one. Put a tilt head on it (i.e. Bogen 3232 or 3229 if you want a quick-release plate) and you should be good to go. It can also double as a walking stick
One photography store around here suggested spreading your feet out and leaning into an angled monopod - in effect, you and the monopod become a tripod. Is it as stable as one? No, but much lighter and should let you get those long shots you crave
That does require a static scene, though. Another alternative (not free) might be to get Noise Ninja.Darth Wong wrote:Cranking up the ISO speed is a really bad idea if the lighting is not too good. In that case, here's a tip that requires a computer: stabilize the camera on a solid object or tripod and then take a whole bunch of rapid-fire shots, like four or five. Then, load all those pictures into a computer and use digital image averaging to add them together into a single picture (you might want to skip the first one if you have a tendency to jostle the camera when you hit the button). That will eliminate most of the grain.