aerius wrote:I find it hilarious that you're taking pictures of a homeless guy instead of hot chicks.
Guess who's more least likely raise a fuss due to a stranger taking pictures of them without lengthy explanations and requests (That will result in the shot dissapearing):
A) Parents of naked babies running around the Place.
B) Boyfriends of hot chicks in bikinis (Or females themselves).
C) An unconscious, drunk homeless dude.
D) Your fiance.
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
.
DEATH wrote:I'd hoped it would be better at preventing "burnt" skies (See the yawn), with the 14 bit and large range whatjits, and it is, to a point. I can't seem to lower the exposure though, only the Flash exposure
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
As far as I can tell, the camera exposure locked on the dark(er) foreground so that the person is exposed properly, which then blows out the sky. So, you gotta make the camera lock onto the sky and expose that properly which then makes the person too dark, but that's not a problem since Photoshop can easily fix that.
But what about actually focusing on the subject? (I know what AEL is/works, although I can't get it to work properly on the Canon, maybe it's only possible in Manual with something disabled).
Point the camera at the sky, press the button halfway down or hit the exposure-lock function (your camera should have one, read the manual, mine does so your should) to lock in the exposure, then swing it down and press it down the rest of the way to take the picture.
I prefer darkening slightly, getting a good evaluated metering, and maybe adding in a forced flash. Usually gets better results, and Coronas of light can make for nifty side-effects. (Ask Ace
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
).
Also look for an exposure compensation setting somewhere and turn it down a bit, maybe -2/3 EV or so.
I found it, but it reads as "Flash EV", despite being on the primary adjustable elements buttons. Very odd thing
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
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Find the exposure mode setting as well and try changing it from the default to "spot" or one of the other settings, that can help in making the camera properly expose what you want it to instead of what it thinks you want.
You think I use "Spot" metering? God no, center weighted at worst, and usually evaluative (Whole light reading).
So now you got your picture with a large part that's underexposed, now load it up in Photoshop and get to work with the Curves tool.
I played with that a bit (When you gave me the colours advice), although I lack photo shop now. I really need to redownload PAINT.Net, or find a good alternative "Alternative". Again.
I use a Curves adjustment layer since it makes my life easier if I screw up. You can see an example of the settings I'm using below as well as the results. Play around with the settings and see what looks best.
Thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind. (The problem is deciding when it will help, and doing it well. Theory, and recognizing the need for it and practice all being seperate processess, etc. I prefer just getting the image right, it prevents lazyness, which happens easily enough in digital).
I've been considering trying film recently, since my dad wants some poster or meter sized prints for his office, problem is having a film with me all the time for some excellent shot. (Most of my stuff is 3-5 MP sized, which makes for A3 prints)
Darth Mall wrote:
Learn to shoot in manual, you have a 40D, specially designed to make it easier to do that (the wheel in place of the button pad on back).
I prefer to use "P" (Programmable) to adjust the settings, but to let the camera set the rest. (For day to day shooting, not trying for artistic "flowing water/stars" effects). The Image and angle are where I'm best at, as opposed to figuring out that most people like extreme contrast to extreme saturation and how much is too much, etc'. (Although Kromachrome style pics would be fun to do as well...).
darth mall wrote:
Don't be one of those guys with the super expensive camera that shoots only in the preset modes.
Hey, it's not MY camera
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
. I use presets then adjust and finetune according to circumstance. (I do know how to do DOF, shutter blur, panning etc', I just never carry a tripod with me, and I always get F-stops mixed up... Doofus that I am).
darth mall wrote:shooting manual will make the pictures just that much better alot, and be alot more satisfying.
Arguably. It depends what you're doing, and tweaking is easier for me than building up, I lack that much understanding, experience and confidence.
I shoot in programmable most in the time (Camera sets the settings, I tweak and adjust).
mall wrote:
Also are you shooting in RAW or in Jpeg?
Always JPEg, I have maybe 3 RAW images total. I may start taking JPEG+RAW, when somewhere interesting or with adverse photo conditions, but I lack the filtering perception to cut down batches into the sizes needed for individual painstacking photoshopping. (Crop, Picasa adjustments, and a few settings and elements lightly massaged in Picasa is the limit).
d mall wrote:
For a shot like that I would shoot low iso, a fast shutter, and a wide open aperture (assuming you didn't want the factory to be fully in focus, a smaller aperture, slower shutter if you did) and have hte flash fire off.
Use the Flash? Are you high, the Factory was over a kilometer away
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
. I was using a strong zoom (200mm top end lense, remember
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
).
Right, I need to upload some more of the new sets.
What do you (Loyal critics/experts) want more:
- Jazz/Rock concert
- The ancient city of Jaffo (Tel-Aviv Arab area)
- Awesome beach in the North of Israel. (Never shown before).
- Village + House