And here's a preemptive stay out of here, Phant.


Moderator: Beowulf
I'm still in the novice range when it comes to the tech work, but I'm learning. I've been improving a junker Fender Squier, and so far, it's going pretty well. I wont be hammering on my Grestch any time soon though...General Zod wrote:The most I know about repairing guitars is how to change the strings on my own.
So that are you waiting for?aerius wrote:I can build you a guitar amp and that's about where my knowledge ends.
A certified check, money order, or payment into my paypal account so I can buy the parts needed to build it?Superman wrote:So that are you waiting for?
String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.Superman wrote:I'm still in the novice range when it comes to the tech work, but I'm learning. I've been improving a junker Fender Squier, and so far, it's going pretty well. I wont be hammering on my Grestch any time soon though...General Zod wrote:The most I know about repairing guitars is how to change the strings on my own.
What size strings do you normally use?
Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string lengthGeneral Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.
Oh, well. I don't really have a preference as long as it sounds metal. I've only had to change the strings once when I made the noob mistake of trying to tune it by ear and accidentally snapped the E string.Superman wrote:Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string lengthGeneral Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.
If that happened recently, you might want to have a tech check the guitar's neck relief (tension between bridge and nut). It might do a whole lot better with an adjustment. Of course, anyone's string would snap if they put it on and start winding like a madman...General Zod wrote:Oh, well. I don't really have a preference as long as it sounds metal. I've only had to change the strings once when I made the noob mistake of trying to tune it by ear and accidentally snapped the E string.
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.YT300000 wrote:What specifically are you looking to do? I'm just starting to mess around with the electronics in one of my guitars and haven't done much bodywork yet, but I could probably offer some advice.
Also, because I missed this last bit: I wound up shelling out about $200 for the guitar itself and another $80 for a cheap Marshall amp. I had planned on getting a BC Rich Warbeast but it was about $100 more than I wanted to spend at the time.Superman wrote:Right, I was asking which gauge you prefer, as opposed to you know, string lengthGeneral Zod wrote:String size isn't something I'm really familiar with, but if I'm reading it right the strings I've got on my axe right now are regular-light 10-46s. For reference I've got a Dean MLX.![]()
Cool guitar. How much did you pay for it?
As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.
Oh, that sort of thing, I can definitely help you with that, I thought you meant something more advanced. Judging by the earlier reference to a Squier, I'm guessing you've got a 6-screw Fender Synchronized Trem on there, which would also explain why it's not in tune.Superman wrote:Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.YT300000 wrote:What specifically are you looking to do? I'm just starting to mess around with the electronics in one of my guitars and haven't done much bodywork yet, but I could probably offer some advice.
It's not really that hard, you just need a bit of patience and 3 or 4 sizes of screwdrivers.tim31 wrote:As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.
It's not a problem with staying in tune, at least not yet... I haven't effed with it enough yet.YT300000 wrote:Oh, that sort of thing, I can definitely help you with that, I thought you meant something more advanced. Judging by the earlier reference to a Squier, I'm guessing you've got a 6-screw Fender Synchronized Trem on there, which would also explain why it's not in tune.![]()
Only if you don't properly secure the bridge. Otherwise, the tension from the strings will pull the bridge upwards thereby detuning your guitar in unpredicatable ways.Superman wrote:*snip*is there any reason at that point at all for keeping the springs in the cavity? Anyone ever take all of them out?
Yeah, got that. So let's assume that everything is good. No more float. Could taking the springs out affect the tone in any way?The Spartan wrote:Only if you don't properly secure the bridge. Otherwise, the tension from the strings will pull the bridge upwards thereby detuning your guitar in unpredicatable ways.Superman wrote:*snip*is there any reason at that point at all for keeping the springs in the cavity? Anyone ever take all of them out?
Everything you do to your guitar will affect tone. Some noticeably, some not so much.Superman wrote:Yeah, got that. So let's assume that everything is good. No more float. Could taking the springs out affect the tone in any way?
Please impart this forbidden knowledge!YT300000 wrote:
It's not really that hard, you just need a bit of patience and 3 or 4 sizes of screwdrivers.
This is coming from a guy who utterly abhors locking nuts (you lose too much tone, even on the Fender swivel variety of the 80's), and is to too cheap to buy locking tuners: with proper balancing, you can dive bomb on any well-made floating bridge all day and come back perfectly in tune every time.
Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I've been doing some Googling and found some interesting info on this very subject (thanks to some of your information). It's from "Hard Tail Options" chapter of "The Fender Stratocaster Handbook."The Spartan wrote:snip
Well, shit. Had no idea about that either.At least one of the trem springs should be left in place, as this provides the earth or ground continuity via the wiring to the spring 'claw.' As they contribute to the sound, they are best left in place.
Actually, I think they're more hassle than worth and turn into a crutch for hacky soloists all too often.tim31 wrote:As far as I'm concerned, that's a black art and I hope to hell Tith knows... You'd think a metalhead would have a grasp of getting the most out of your tremolo arm?Superman wrote:
Ah, ok... My question has to do with stabilizing a tremolo system, not the electronics.
Not only am I disappointed with your revelation, sir, but you have shattered all of my hopes and dreams as well. Now that I know you don't like using a whammy bar, I'm not sure that I can on. I now bid you good day!TithonusSyndrome wrote:Sorry to disappoint.