World of Tanks

[DrMckay]

ty for the info. I really loved the t-28 with the 85mm and was sorry to get rid of it. I also kept the premium m3 stuart (lend lease) because it's cheap to maintain and is a nice way to get free experience. I'm also looking at a good US tank to work towards. I'm thinking the M4e8 thought light tanks because the Lee was a pain in the ass.

[spaceviking]

ty for the info. I really loved the t-28 with the 85mm and was sorry to get rid of it. I also kept the premium m3 stuart (lend lease) because it's cheap to maintain and is a nice way to get free experience. I'm also looking at a good US tank to work towards. I'm thinking the M4e8 thought light tanks because the Lee was a pain in the ass.

Go with the T-1 line. Probably the most fun of any line.

[Simon_Jester]

The... T-1 line? Could you be a little more specific? I'm not sure I understand you.

[Vanas]

The US heavy tree at a guess. Heck, I'm aiming at it myself. Not actually *driving* the armed barns of tiers 5 and 6, but using a stable of premiums to ignore them. Mostly because I really like the look of the T32 and want one for my garage.

I'm so happy the KV-1 can't go full moron with it's lolgun now. Springtime for Churchills and British tanks.

[Gervasius]

Are the Russian SPG's worth sticking with?

Oh yes, they are. After SU-5 you have SU-8 which plays similarly to -5 but better in every way. After that, you will jump into SU-14 that, when upgraded, has a monster 203mm howitzer and you will sometimes one-shot even Tier VIII heavies. Following SU-14 comes Ob.212 that packs the same gun but on a more accurate chassis with more ammo and better reload. Also, SU-14 and Ob.212 are slow as whales so don't count on running away from trouble often. Final soviet artillery, Obj.261, does less damage than its predecessors but it compensates for it with fantastic accuracy, rapid rate of fire and very short shell flight time. Also, it has a pretty low arc so hitting things behind cover in Obj.261 is a bit tricky.

In short, Soviet artillery is great, however, path to Ob.261 is long and tiresome and you will hate that 310k XP needed on Ob.212 to research 261.

[Simon_Jester]

I actually had a lot of fun with the M6 heavy; with the 90mm gun it's almost as nasty as the KV-2 is with its 107mm. The main disadvantage is that it's a bigger target.

[Vanas]

Victory!
Battle: Redshire 22 May 2012 20:37:34
Vehicle: Ram-II
Experience received: 1,282
Credits received: 36,340
Battle Achievements: Mastery Badge: I Class

So, fourth battle with the Ram. Ended up dogfighting with a Pz III/IV in town, dodging a T29 that was battering down buildings trying to get me. Killed both, an M7 and an arty piece. Shame it wasn't a double, really.

It's proving fairly enjoyable so far, like a Churchill made of merely metre thick-iron.

[Scottish Ninja]

So, the T-43 was crap.

Until I decided to man the fuck up and be good at it,, that and buy the engine too.

It's working so far. What I've now successfully internalized is that it is very much a second-line tank - to the point where I groan about Tier 7 battles, since far too often I'll be expected to carry when the T-43 has at best an extremely marginal ability to do that. But it's got enough speed and agility to exploit gaps in enemy coverage and make flanking attacks, and just enough armor to bounce a few rounds at longer range, when angled well, combined with the D10T being able to actually get through the fronts of some enemies. The upshot is that the T-43 is perfectly capable of hanging back behind tougher tanks and plinking rounds at people until an opportunity presents itself to go in and flank. The Panther can do the first job very well; the T20 can do the second pretty well, but neither can really do both.

40k to go to the T-44 still. I'm gonna be facing purchase prices for five Tier 8s soon enough - the T32 (already unlocked), the Panther II (70k to go), the King Tiger (20k to engine then 78k), the KV-4 (30k), and the T-44. Uh, is there a financing plan available?

DrMckay - be warned, the Pz38nA is considered a "scout" and gets put into battles up to Tier 9. I had to fight a Jagdtiger once. (If he hadn't been backed up against the edge of the map...) That can really be a rough shock coming fresh out of Tier 3 tanks who don't see anything above T5, so prepare yourself. If at all possible, get a 75% crew for that thing - it's pretty much universally worth it Tier 5 and up, when the price becomes substantially less than the overall cost of the tank; little sketchier for Tier 4 but the lights desperately need it or they're completely doomed to misery and death.

The KV-1 - I've only played a few battles since 7.3 came out, but with the 85mm I've done pretty well. Haven't tried the 57mm at all, but then I already have the Churchill for that. Soviet heavies in general are pretty awesome; the IS-3 is my favorite so far, though the KV-3 rocked before 7.3 and rocks now. Haven't played the KV-1S yet so I can't really tell you how that plays, though you'll need to now if you want the IS line, nor have I played my T-150 yet. They may be hurdles to clear, though the KV-1S gets the D-2-5T still at T6, where it's a goddamn monster. Just make sure you shove it right in someone's face before you pull the trigger.

[Highlord Laan]

ty for the info. I really loved the t-28 with the 85mm and was sorry to get rid of it. I also kept the premium m3 stuart (lend lease) because it's cheap to maintain and is a nice way to get free experience. I'm also looking at a good US tank to work towards. I'm thinking the M4e8 thought light tanks because the Lee was a pain in the ass.

Go with the T-1 line. Probably the most fun of any line.

The T1 Heavy is completely pointless now that the Sherman Jumbo exists. Go for the M4 Sherman from the Lee, then EZ8 and then the Jumbo. Yes, it's a detour through the medium tree, but the M4 series are solid and fun so it's all good. The Jumbo has more HP than the T1, the same guns, better armor, is faster and pulls almost the same matchmaking. There is no point to the T1 aside from being a shitty shortcut that's good at ramming.

The M6 Heavy can be researched from the Jumbo, but so can the T20 Medium. And the 90mm M3 is cheaper XP wise to snag on the T20, while the M6 is dirt cheap to research on the Jumbo. Snag the 90mm via the T20 (another solid and fun medium), then research the M6. After getting the tracks and turret, you'll immediately be able to mount the best gun the tank can handle. After that it's clear sailing to the murdertastic T29 and beyond.

As for the T20, you can either keep it or sell it. It leads to the Pershing, which is the US tree's first near godlike medium. Even if you don't go further down the medium line and sell the T20, you'll have elited the M4 and Jumbo (but likely not the EZ8, as it also leads to the M36 Slugger) which you can use to fund you continued drive to higher tiered heavies. And the M4 is arguably the best tier 5 medium in the game, and the Jumbo is a very solid and dependable support tank in the higher tiered matches it often pulls while also being the near invulnerable grim reaper in the occasional tier 5 match.

[Simon_Jester]

How exactly does one take advantage of the "near godlike" Pershing's strengths and minimize its weaknesses? I KNOW I'm doing something wrong in that tank, more so than usual.

[Nephtys]

The E8 and T20 are two of the most fun tanks I've ever driven. Actually, the E8's /THE/ Most fun tank I've ever driven. It handles smoothly, accelerates well, occasionally bounces lower tier weapons, and has a rapid fire, pinpoint accurate deathgun, that I've on a handful of occasions, solo'ed Tier 8 vehicles through point blank dogfighting.

The T20 is different. It's got a highly penetrating 90mm gun, incredible speed, somewhat sub-par turning and paper thin armor. It'll lose fights depressingly regularly against an E8. It's advantage? It's incredibly low to the ground and has amazing gun depression. It teaches you to worship the hull-down position, and then has an effective armor rating of infinite. A highly mobile and dangerous sniper, a smart T20 can really punch above it's weight class.

I enjoy the Pershing somewhat. Basically, you need to play it like a maneuverable, but slow, T20. Keep yourself hull down at all costs. Your mantlet has a chance of deflecting enemy medium fire, but if a Heavy's turret ever even points your way, break LoS. Poke slightly over ridges, and aim for the flanks of heavies, or their lower glacis plates.

[Vejut]

I'm feeling the same way as simon, only about the M4. Frankly hating the thing, but thinking at least partially it's not having driven mediums other than T-28 or Lee before, which don't really count. It's to the point where I think I'd rather just stick with the Lee. Also, the fact that I apparently usually get on when everybody's grinding premium 8s doesn't help. Any tips for somebody transitioning to the M4 from the Hellcat and KV-1?

[Simon_Jester]

First piece of advice: get the 105mm gun- that can at least do credit/XP-earning damage to Tier 8 tanks if you line up your shots right. I once got Oskin's Medal in a Sherman 105. This will have many of the same satisfactions as the 75mm howitzer you probably had for the M2 Medium, which you may remember.

The M1A2 76mm gun is competitive with the 105 because of its sheer rate of fire and accuracy; the M1A1 isn't in my opinion. But the 105 remains a pretty good choice to put on an American medium until the 90mm guns become available, as those greatly outperform the 105 against most threats.

Second piece of advice: you can't exploit raw speed the way a Hellcat could, and you don't have the massive armor and firepower of the KV-1 (did you play your KV before the patch? Did you use the KV-2 turret and big guns on it?). What you do have is agility- much more of it than either of those two tanks.

Third piece of advice: following on the second one, think about what your tank is capable of and how to exploit it. You can circle enemies with slow-turning turrets, or at least run an arc around them and duck back behind cover. You can play hit and run with the 105mm gun. You can more or less keep up with enemy light armor in terms of maneuver, which lets you act like an interceptor to chase down and kill annoying lights in higher-tier matches.

Fourth piece of advice: like a number of other tanks, many of them American, you have the disadvantage of a high target profile- you are hard to miss in the open. In a long range duel, try to find cover to tuck your hull behind, or corners to hide the bulk of your tank and its thin-skinned, vertically armored flanks.

Fifth and last: Nephtys is right, and much of my problem with the Pershing comes from having been able to get away with forgetting this in the T20 and Easy Eight- American mediums love to go hull down. In the Sherman's case, the turret really isn't all that impressive, and won't keep out determined 50mm fire, but it's a damn sight better than nothing and it conceals that big boxy hull. This is NOT something you get practice for in the Lee, although it works pretty well in the M2 Medium.

[Thunderfire]

Any tips for somebody transitioning to the M4 from the Hellcat and KV-1?

Use HE on weak spots. A friend killed a T30, IS4 and a Tiger with the 105mm howitzer.

[Simon_Jester]

Any gun should be fired at weak spots if you can manage it; the trick is finding a time and place when doing so is survivable.

[Zinegata]

Any tips for somebody transitioning to the M4 from the Hellcat and KV-1?

In addition to what Simon said, the M4 tends to be a very opportunistic sort of tank.

If it's the top tank in a match, then it should seek to engage smaller tanks in one-on-one situation, aiming to obliterate them with a single shot of the 105mm. When facing the enemy's top-tier tanks, slightly different tactics should be used. Let the enemy engage your Tier 3/4s and then inflict massive damage on them while they are distracted. An M4 can obliterate a KV with a few flank or rear shots. It can even one-shot a fellow M4 with a good rear shot.

Against higher tier enemies, do not engage higher tier tanks on your own. Let your bigger tanks make contact and draw fire. Your job is to flank and inflict a steady stream of damage. In these cases, don't forget that your 105mm gun remains effective at any range as long as it hits a weak spot; so you can attempt to engage in long-ranged flanking gunnery. Remember to "lead" your shots a little as the 105mm shells travels a bit slowly. I would also suggest to aim a little "high" as the shell tends to "drop" over long ranges.

Do not underestimate your ability to backstab, especially in cities. When necessary, close to knife-fighting range, especially against more weakly armored high-tier tanks. I once had a match in an M4 wherein I evaded an enemy IS-3 in a city, maneuvered behind an enemy T20, and destroyed the latter tank (from 30% life) with a single 105mm shot to the rear. The IS-3 eventually killed me, but I had already done my duty by killing Tier 7; not to mention that I even managed to pumped one last shell into the IS-3 before dying.

[Simon_Jester]

Also, this is an important lesson I still have trouble with: don't sit out where people can see you while reloading your gun if it takes much more than about 4-5 seconds to reload, not if you can help it. And don't sit in a medium tank while heavy tank turrets or tank destroyers are pointed at you. Back up, run, hide, something, because your armor has zero chance of saving you from their fire. Your gun may be comparable to theirs in DPS, but it won't hurt them as reliably as they hurt you.

Also, for agile mediums, zig-zagging is a fairly effective way to evade enemy fire. Not just artillery (which has to project your course for several seconds to wait for the round to arrive), but also normal guns, because by zig-zagging a bit you change your profile and unexpectedly cause the bulk of your tank to be located a bit to the left or right of where they expect. It's not so useful against direct fire weapons, but at least it also means you're usually presenting angled and sloped armor to their fire instead of clear shots into your broadside or rear armor.

[Rekkon]

Yes, it is amazing the number of times I see people take a hit (even a bounce) and take no defensive action whatsoever. Sometimes yes, they are dealing damage elsewhere, but too often they do not see me or anyone else. Occasionally it is worth it to stay exposed so that you do not have to re-zero your gun when you pop out again, but that depends very much on the specific situation.

Zig-zagging is fine if your vehicle can maintain speed adequately while doing so, otherwise you are probably better off (at longer range) just driving perpendicular to give them the worst deflection shot possible. Many people cannot properly lead a target, and sometimes it is liberating to know your front armor will not help you any more than your side. More incentive to maneuver. In the AMX 13 75/90 I would routinely park backwards in ambush positions. It let me expose less of my tank around corners, protected the front-mounted engine better and let me disengage faster. Sure the crew was more exposed, but that thing was so small they tended to die no matter where you were hit.

[Broken]

While going hull-down is a proper course of action in a tank game, you have to remember this is really an arcade game with some tank-like mechanics. Artillery loves it when you go hull-down, because you just stopped being a moving target and it is now just a matter of them not getting screwed by the RNG before they kill you. As you end up in larger, higher tier tanks, artillery also gets bigger and you end up spending more time avoiding SPG zones then fighting the enemy tanks.

As an example, while I don't play this game much anymore, I recently took my tanks out for some daily-doubles and ended up with my E-50 on the new Asian-themed map. An E-100 and myself ended up a blocking force, stopping the advance of an enemy E-100, IS-3, Lowe, and AMX50-100. Our E-100 was using the side of the mountain for cover, while I was a little further out using the ditch next to the road to cover my lower glacis and move to spots where I could get a shot off. The enemy couldn't get reliable shots off at us and didn't seem willing to rush our position, so it was turning into an interesting game of how much do you expose yourself to get a good line of sight, requiring risk-assessment and awareness of the situation around you. Then my E-50 exploded. 2000 points of damage from the enemy Tier 7 arty, the only enemy SPG on the entire map, enough to one-shot me from full health. Tactically, I was in the right position. Mobile enough to get to several firing positions, only my turret and maybe some of my extremely well sloped and protected hull visible to the enemy, and with a clear line of retreat if the enemy advanced en masse. In game terms, I was being an idiot. No cover from SPG's and I wasn't moving at 40 kmh while zig-zagging as apparently all mediums always should be when arty is on the field.

The lesson here is, at higher tiers, always hump a rock. Hard cover is the only thing that will save you from endgame artillery pieces and even then they will "miss" you for 500 points of damage and several wrecked modules.

[Vanas]

Speaking as a (german) heavy driver, my best advice for medium types is to be bold. Was in a match on the Mountain Pass yesterday, with my E-75, a Type 59 and some T6 medium heading for the little corner in the south west. We got there at the same time as the enemy's own force; one T34 heavy, a Type 59 and an IS. Our medium got vapourised off the bat, but the enemy just tried to hide behind each other rather than press on.
Had the Type and/or IS moved forwards while I engaged the 34, I'd likely have been persuaded to retreat to cover my flanks. Instead, I made three kills while taking minor damage and trundled ever onwards.

Be bold. Take a hit for the team and get those fat bastards in their heavies to get uncomfortable.

[Simon_Jester]

I don't have a lot of experience of that happening, even in Tier 7 and 8 tanks that routinely end up in the highest-tier matches. I'm still dying to enemy tanks a lot.

Of course, I'm not that good a player, so from the point of view of some unbeatable loony artillery may be basically the only thing that can stop them because they sneer at anything less than 8" artillery shells.

I dunno.

[DrMckay]

trying some new stuff, currently loving the T-57 (american spg) but having a hard time liking the BT-7. It's too fast to hit anything, but if I stop to fire or get hit, BOOM! that's all she wrote. basically, I scout and then die. any tactics suggestions? Also, is it a good idea to keep the premiun Stuart if I plan on remaining Free To play? it's nice and all but it takes up a garage slot. Final question: Is it better to get all new crews for the tanks, or keep retraining the ones I have. (which is what I'm doing now.

Thanks.

[The Vortex Empire]

Been a while since I played the BT-7, but as I recall it's got decent enough armor for a tier 3 and decent guns. You're gonna want to use your mobility to get behind people while they're tied up fighting other teammates. Also, ramming. A full speed ram from either of the BTs is pretty devastating to anything tier 3 or lower.

I wouldn't waste credits retraining crews until tier 5, but at that point definitely keep the old crews and retrain them.

[Simon_Jester]

Yeah. Ramming is actually quite useful for the BT-7 and A-20; a lot of my best kills were ramming attacks.

It's kind of sad, but there it is.

[Thunderfire]

trying some new stuff, currently loving the T-57 (american spg) but having a hard time liking the BT-7. It's too fast to hit anything, but if I stop to fire or get hit, BOOM! that's all she wrote. basically, I scout and then die. any tactics suggestions? Also, is it a good idea to keep the premiun Stuart if I plan on remaining Free To play? it's nice and all but it takes up a garage slot. Final question: Is it better to get all new crews for the tanks, or keep retraining the ones I have. (which is what I'm doing now.

Thanks.

The BT-7 is a BT-2 with more HP. It has no armor and bad guns. Use is as a scout or skirmisher. Successful scouting requires excellent map knowledge and a good crew. A Successful skirmisher watches the mini map and goes after distracted targets. Don't trade shots when you are driving a skirmisher. Retraining a crew member costs 0/20000 cr/200 gold , hiring a crew member costs 0/20000 cr/200 gold -> always retrain your crew.