Im pissed.
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Im pissed.
Ok, I finally got my license, insurance, and all that, along with a car, a 95 Avenger, and I finally got my parking permit at the school yesterday, so today was the first time I've gotten to drive it to school. Today as I was leaving, I go to my car, and find that the drivers side lock, where the key is inserted, had fallen into the door. The car is in really good shape, and I'm pretty sure some asshole did it, instead of it falling when I shut the door in the morning. Any advice on how to fix this?
If you want to do it yourself, then you'll probably have to take the inside door panel off and fish around for the lock. Try and see what exactly happend. It may have just come loose from it's housing, or someone may have pushed it in while trying to "jimmy" the lock.
It all comes down to what condition the lock is in. Although, if the actual locking mechanism is dislodged from the door, I would recommend taking it into the dealship to have it fixed, unless you or someone you know has experience in fixing this sort of thing.
PS: Kudos on buying a Dodge.
It all comes down to what condition the lock is in. Although, if the actual locking mechanism is dislodged from the door, I would recommend taking it into the dealship to have it fixed, unless you or someone you know has experience in fixing this sort of thing.
PS: Kudos on buying a Dodge.
Its a pain in the butt to open up a door, even if you do know how to do it. And it is not something I'd try doing without the background knowledge. I'd find a mechanic to fix it.
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Re: Im pissed.
Sorry about your luck. People who do stuff like that are cowardly little ass-clowns.
"It's not evil for God to do it. Or for someone to do it at God's command."- Jonathan Boyd on baby-killing
"you guys are fascinated with the use of those "rules of logic" to the extent that you don't really want to discussus anything."- GC
"I do not believe Russian Roulette is a stupid act" - Embracer of Darkness
"Viagra commercials appear to save lives" - tharkûn on US health care.
http://www.stardestroyer.net/Mike/RantMode/Blurbs.html
"you guys are fascinated with the use of those "rules of logic" to the extent that you don't really want to discussus anything."- GC
"I do not believe Russian Roulette is a stupid act" - Embracer of Darkness
"Viagra commercials appear to save lives" - tharkûn on US health care.
http://www.stardestroyer.net/Mike/RantMode/Blurbs.html
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They're probably just jealous. having a car is like being given that little bit more freedom. no longer do you have to blag lifts off your parentsbecause you can drive where you want! I drove Daewoo Matiz and people were still jealous!
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Get a manual. Bently is the best, then Clymer, and Chilton is about worthless, exept for specs.
Door panels are a bitch undert ideal conditions. Get the special tool for taking the window crank off. (2 small flat tip screwdrivers will do, but is a bitch if you don't have the "touch." The parts that hold the panel to the door are NOT meant to be removed, but should still be flexible enough. (they are like zip ties, or wiring harnesses, with the "lock" finger, or barb)
Be ready to use glue if need be, and OEM fasteners aren't available.
Go to an auto parts store, and see if there are specific tools for this task.
I know only GM cars, and they have a panel removing tool, like a pickle fork wedge, and a window crank clip revover. The clips look look like the Omega symbol, and hold the handle on to a spline with a groove in it.
They are incredably easy to assemble, when the parts are newish and still flexible.
Hard learned lesson ahead.
When you take the window crank off, have the window up all the way.
When you put the handle back on, make sure gravity any vibrations will close the window tighter by acting on the handle. 3:00, or 9:00 position, depending on whether clockwise or counterclockwise tighens the window.
Otherwise your window will never stay closed! The auto rolldown feature sucks in cold weather! Even if it doesn't let air in, the window will vibrate in the weatherstripping.Very annoying!
The 30$ you spend on the specialty tools will be ofset by skin you keep, and not fucking up your door panels. They are vinal covered pressboard
Buy 3m trim adhesive if you booger the panel clips, (and can't get them)cheap shit doesn't last.
Napa caries them in the Balkamp product line. Both tools and clips. Special order them if need be. It will be the 731-,734-, or 735- section.(the tools,don't loose the clip!)
Door panels are a bitch undert ideal conditions. Get the special tool for taking the window crank off. (2 small flat tip screwdrivers will do, but is a bitch if you don't have the "touch." The parts that hold the panel to the door are NOT meant to be removed, but should still be flexible enough. (they are like zip ties, or wiring harnesses, with the "lock" finger, or barb)
Be ready to use glue if need be, and OEM fasteners aren't available.
Go to an auto parts store, and see if there are specific tools for this task.
I know only GM cars, and they have a panel removing tool, like a pickle fork wedge, and a window crank clip revover. The clips look look like the Omega symbol, and hold the handle on to a spline with a groove in it.
They are incredably easy to assemble, when the parts are newish and still flexible.
Hard learned lesson ahead.
When you take the window crank off, have the window up all the way.
When you put the handle back on, make sure gravity any vibrations will close the window tighter by acting on the handle. 3:00, or 9:00 position, depending on whether clockwise or counterclockwise tighens the window.
Otherwise your window will never stay closed! The auto rolldown feature sucks in cold weather! Even if it doesn't let air in, the window will vibrate in the weatherstripping.Very annoying!
The 30$ you spend on the specialty tools will be ofset by skin you keep, and not fucking up your door panels. They are vinal covered pressboard
Buy 3m trim adhesive if you booger the panel clips, (and can't get them)cheap shit doesn't last.
Napa caries them in the Balkamp product line. Both tools and clips. Special order them if need be. It will be the 731-,734-, or 735- section.(the tools,don't loose the clip!)
Hmmmmmm.
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
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Brotherhood of the Monkey
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
Oldest member of SD.net, not most mature.
Brotherhood of the Monkey
Couldn't have told me a couple of years ago when I blew the money on the Chilton one for my truck. For what it cost It truly does suck.EmperorChrostas the Cruel wrote:Get a manual. Bently is the best, then Clymer, and Chilton is about worthless, exept for specs
By the pricking of my thumb,
Something wicked this way comes.
Open, locks,
Whoever knocks.
Something wicked this way comes.
Open, locks,
Whoever knocks.
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D'oh! Forgot about Haynes!
I beg to differ about the "best" part though.
They are second only to Bently.
Bently is pricey, (35$/50$) and doesn't cover as many models/makes. If you can't get a Bentley, definately get Haynes!
Clymer is fucking worthless, unless you have an older car, know what you are doing, and only need specs. (Has Valve adjustment clearances, timing, plug and point gap. You remember points don't you?)
Go to http://www.bentleypublishers.com/
If you plan on keeping you car for more than 5 years, they are worth it!
Techs at DEALERSHIPS use these, as references. Complete electrical schematics, antilock brake and fuel injection troubleshooting flow charts it has! Hell, it tells you little secrets that save you from knuckle skinning, and gives advanced warnings of common fuckups, and danger points.
It also lists any special tools you need, by brand and part number.
If your car has electronic ignition, and fuel injection, and self adjusting lifters, Clymer has no point at all. The spark plug gap the inly useful data, and you can find that out when you buy the plugs, from any reputable store. Napa, Chief, Pep Boys, Autozone ect....
I beg to differ about the "best" part though.
They are second only to Bently.
Bently is pricey, (35$/50$) and doesn't cover as many models/makes. If you can't get a Bentley, definately get Haynes!
Clymer is fucking worthless, unless you have an older car, know what you are doing, and only need specs. (Has Valve adjustment clearances, timing, plug and point gap. You remember points don't you?)
Go to http://www.bentleypublishers.com/
If you plan on keeping you car for more than 5 years, they are worth it!
Techs at DEALERSHIPS use these, as references. Complete electrical schematics, antilock brake and fuel injection troubleshooting flow charts it has! Hell, it tells you little secrets that save you from knuckle skinning, and gives advanced warnings of common fuckups, and danger points.
It also lists any special tools you need, by brand and part number.
If your car has electronic ignition, and fuel injection, and self adjusting lifters, Clymer has no point at all. The spark plug gap the inly useful data, and you can find that out when you buy the plugs, from any reputable store. Napa, Chief, Pep Boys, Autozone ect....
Hmmmmmm.
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
Oldest member of SD.net, not most mature.
Brotherhood of the Monkey
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
Oldest member of SD.net, not most mature.
Brotherhood of the Monkey
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Time to agree with Chardoc. Bentley makes nothing for the Chrysler family, get a Haynes.
Everyone else, go to the sight, see if you are covered, and get one if you can! (What, not everyone is a Gearhead?)
Everyone else, go to the sight, see if you are covered, and get one if you can! (What, not everyone is a Gearhead?)
Hmmmmmm.
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
Oldest member of SD.net, not most mature.
Brotherhood of the Monkey
"It is happening now, It has happened before, It will surely happen again."
Oldest member of SD.net, not most mature.
Brotherhood of the Monkey